HYDRATE YOUR SKIN - INSIDE OUT
By Sarah Siri Blejc, MPharm
Water is a substance we can least afford to give up. As little as 0.5% water loss causes thirst, and we can no longer function at around 7% loss. As our most extensive and fastest growing organ, skin requires it to maintain its strength and elasticity - in other words, to look and feel healthy. Many factors influence our skin's water content.
Water is a substance we can least afford to give up. As little as 0.5% water loss causes thirst, and at around 7% loss, we can no longer function. As our most extensive and fastest-growing organ, skin requires it to maintain its strength and elasticity - in other words, to look and feel healthy. Many factors influence our skin's water content.
How does the skin barrier work?
Our skin has an important built-in barrier to hold in water. The outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, could be presented as a »brick&mortar« model. Bricks, or so-called corneocytes (dead skin cells), help keep the moisture inside your cells. Mortar represents the sebum, an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands, and helps moisturize the skin.
I've noticed many clients need clarification on the following terms since they are often used interchangeably and go hand in hand: skin dryness vs. dehydration, moisturizing vs. hydrating: What's the difference?
Skin dryness may result from a lack of lipids that typically seal in moisture, and skin dehydration could arise if the cells underneath the barrier lose too much water. While hydrating your skin requires adding water, moisturizing your skin implies adding ingredients that lock the water inside. Three types of hydrating ingredients in your moisturizers:
Humectants* like hyaluronic acid or glycerin attract water from the air and the deeper layers of skin into the skin's surface to add moisture.
Occlusives like different waxes, butters, and plant oils form a barrier that prevents water from evaporating.
Emollients like plant oils, colloidal oatmeal, and body butters add softness to the skin.
How to Keep Your Skin Hydrated?
To improve the look and feel of your skin, you want to attract moisture inside and keep it there. I advocate a holistic approach that connects the following pillars influencing your skin and overall well-being inside-out:
What do you put inside your body?
Drinking enough is an inevitable fact. Be creative - spice it up with citrus fruits and herbs, providing invaluable plant components. An appropriate diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and healthy fats is crucial as they support and improve your skin's function. Avoid dehydrating drinks and foods such as excessive coffee, alcohol, and a poor diet high in sodium and sugars, as they contribute to systemic dehydration, which may directly affect your skin appearance.
The skincare routine is a cherry on top:
Less is more with only 3 steps: cleansing, toning, and moisturizing. Use gentle products and avoid »over-cleansing, « as you can dry out the skin by repeatedly removing its natural microbiome and moisturizing barrier. For toning, you can use simple hydrolates (e.g. rose water) to soothe your skin and prime it for the final step. Apply your moisturizer on damp skin to improve its absorption. If you plan to spend your day outside, sunscreen is a must. It is recommended to exfoliate once weekly to remove dry patches and dead cells accumulated (exfoliating belongs to the first 1st step).
I want to point out 2 important hydrating ingredients that you may search for in your products or food supplements.
Hyaluronic acid (HA): acts as a natural humectant*. Low-molecular-weight HA was shown to penetrate the outer skin barrier and improve skin hydration, elasticity, and collagen production. Ingesting HA increased skin moisture and contributed to the increased synthesis of HA.
Panthenol: derived from vitamin B5, may also penetrate the skin and imparts moisture to the cells. It promotes skin healing and prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
How about your lifestyle?
Long and warm baths feel pampering but may result in loss of moisture content and necessary oils, which can dehydrate your skin. Using short showers with lukewarm water is ideal. Also, try to avoid the damaging sun's UV rays from 10 AM to 2 PM. It is essential to ensure you are getting at least 7 hours of sleep and try to limit stress by applying habits (walks in nature, sports, yoga, meditation) that help you reduce it to your daily routine.
To sum it up - your 10 daily checks:
Drink at least 2 L of water a day.
Remember to replenish electrolytes.
Avoid dehydrating drinks and foods high in sodium and sugars.
Limit your showers to 5-10 minutes in lukewarm water.
Remember a simple skincare routine (cleansing, toning, moisturizing).
Exfoliate once weekly.
Apply moisturizer to damp skin to improve its absorption.
Ensure you're getting at least 7 hours of sleep.
Always wear sunscreen.
Incorporate a colorful diet that selected supplements might enrich.
Literature:
1. M Essendoubi et al., Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy, Skin Res Technol, 2016.
2. Syed Nasir Abbas Bukhari et al., Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects, Int J Biol Macromol 2018.
3. Chinatsu Kawada et al, Ingested hyaluronan moisturizes dry skin, Nutr J., 2014.
4. EU Register on Nutrition and Health Claims.